One of my "what would I do if I won the lottery" dreams is to visit the few remaining states in my tour of America. They are far-flung: Maine, Minnesota, North Dakota, Washington, and Alaska. I had the holiday week off, so Mississippi is now checked off!
Clarksdale was my destination, and exploring the home of the Delta Blues was my goal. It blows me away that so much incredible talent came from a hole-in-the-wall town: Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Son House, Ike Turner, and Sam Cooke, among many others. Amazing!!
Day #1 started with the Delta Blues Museum, which had the feel of a collection trying to find a space. I was able to not be judgmental and just enjoy the wide range of instruments, music sheets, costumes, and photographs throughout the space in a non-linear flow. Muddy Waters had a special exhibition space with a documentary, and the remains of his childhood cabin was on display. A must see!
Delta Blues Museum's website is here.
One place you HAVE to stop for food in Clarksdale is Abe's BBQ - at the Crossroads. THE CROSSROADS where legend tells that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil for his guitar skills.
Abe's BBQ is also legendary for fabulous meals. I went the classic burnt ends, potato salad, and baked beans.
Since my digs for the week had a fridge and microwave, I ordered lots of food. I had to try the tamale, novelly served with slaw and crackers.
For day #2, I drove to Jackson to visit the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum for a heart-wrenching experience. The route took me past the Emmitt Till Interpretive Center, and I could not face that history. Jackson was on a boil water alert, which reminded me that so many people still don't have what I take for granted everyday. The Museum itself did not hide in its shadows, and displays and audio told the horrific story of slavery and Jim Crow. It was hard to take in, but the story had to be told.
On the drive back, I entered the Natchez Trace Parkway, a National Park Service location and 444-mile scenic drive from Mississippi to Tennessee. I wanted to see more bald cypress trees at the Tupelo-Bald Cypress Swamp stop for more cool reflection photos. Well worth the detour!
That night, I went to Ground Zero Blues Club, Morgan Freeman's joint in Clarksdale. The space was fabulous: long tables pushed together with mismatched tablecloths that you were encouraged to autograph with provided Sharpies, cool art and signs decorating the walls, honky tonk piano blues with Lala and Element 88. Another off-the-chart recommendation!
Day #3 took me to the B.B. King Museum. It is a must-stop while in the area, and plan to spend some time there. This Museum starts with a video about B.B.'s life, and all the amazing lives he touched in and around Indianola, MS. You get a deep-dive into "the King's" life, his impacts, as well as his struggles and his joys.
Finally! A catfish po'boy from Pea Soup's Lott-A-Freeze powered me up for the next stop in search of the roots of the frog.
Pea Soup's doesn't have a website, but their address is 809 US-82, Indianola, MS 38751.
This is the Birthplace of the Frog! Jim Henson was born in Leland, MS, and Kermit's mark is throughout the city. It was sadly closed while I was there due to a staff sickness. But I'm sure it was amazing!
Leland has a cool tradition of decorated rafts in the river, with everything from Santa in his sleigh to guitars, and of course Kermit!
Back to Clarksdale for dinner, and I chose the legendary Stone Pony Pizza veggie to-go. I also stopped by the cool record/folk art store Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art, and popped in a few other downtown shops.
Day 4 and I hit the road early in the morning heading home. I stayed the course until I approached Nashville, Tennessee, and Cheekwood Botanical Gardens, which was on the reciprocal gardens list with my Yew Dell membership. Their gardens were lovely, but not more lovely that ours!
I did love this kilted nutcracker inside the house tour!
And their train village was impressive!
What a great trip! I got to see the roots of Delta Blues, local legacies, as well as botanical treasures. PLUS all the delicious food. And, another state checked off the list! Hmm, what state's next?! Stay tuned!!
